Twisties & Sunrises

The most beautiful and peaceful tarmac bike route in Kenya?

To me: The twisties between Baringo and Elgeyo Marakwet Counties.

Long flowing bends, fresh mountain air in your helmet, endless views into the valleys below and that rare feeling that the road was built purely for riders. What else do you need?

There’s a Christmas I rode the Iten twisties up and down three times and became obsessed with Lake Baringo. As the evening sun turned the lake golden and the islands became dark silhouettes against the water, I promised myself to spend a night out on one of those islands one day.

Easter 2026. My friend Fatima is relocating abroad soon and there are still a few Kenyan gems left on her riding bucket list. We nail down the island lodge and scout accomodation options in Iten.

Let’s do it!

PS: I have found a way to include videos in my blog now. Let me know if it works!

Day 1: Eldama Ravine route to Iten

To avoid the holiday traffic, I left Nairobi the evening before. Hence my day 1 starts in Gilgil. Fatima’s day starts in Nandi Hills town.

Construction at Kikopeop: The long-due dualling of the Nakuru Highway!

From Nakuru, I take the route out north through Kabarak.

Breakfast at Taidy’s in Eldama Ravine, Baringo county. Today and tomorrow will be pure biking paradise, weaving up and down escarpments, away from erratic drivers and traffic.

Riding from Eldama Ravine to Nyaru is beautiful: The wide empty road rolls through forests, farms and small trading centres, constantly climbing and dropping with the landscape.

A reggae playlist on the bluetooth, blue skies overhead and not a traffic jam in sight – life is good.

There’s something special about two bikers approaching a place from opposite directions. I call Fatima and she’s already past Eldoret and I’m about 45 kms south.

Both full of stories already and excited about the trip together, we agree to meet at Nyaru Viewpoint.

We branch off at Nyaru, and take the even more twisty road directly to Iten ✌️which passes on the mountain ridge with beautiful views into Kerio Valley.

A looong incline with km markings painted on the road tells us we’re approaching Iten – where everything revolves around runners. Damn, these people work hard! Olympic dreams are being pursued at 2,400m asl.

We are booked at Iten Accomodation – The Lodge. It forms part of the training camp ecosystem, with two guesthouses and a gym in a beautiful location and a really friendly homestay feel.

One of the local runners offers sports massages which we cannot say no to, and the chef is preparing a delicious dinner for the guests in the shared kitchen.

Time to catch up on Vitamin D, enjoy the beautiful garden and the soundtrack provided by the birds – even the eyes relax to the calming views across the Kerio valley!

Day 2 – Iten to Lake Baringo Samatian Island

We pack up and head out: Twisties Part II is loading!

Iten’s roads are empty and the views are meditative!

One of those moments where you stop mid-corner and point excitedly because the scenery keeps revealing new surprises.

Before long, we get to the bottom of Kerio Valley, where the river gargles through Cheploch Gorge.

We slowly wind our way back on the other side of the escaprment through Kabernet town – thoroughly enjoying the views and lean angles. Obviously, we stop more often than necessary 😅

Suddenly: Lake Baringo, shimmering in the distance between the hills. We’re excited like kids, trying to figure out which of the islands is “ours”!

Once in Marigat town, it’s about 15 minutes to Kampi ya Samaki where we’ll be taking our boat from!

No visit to a semiarid area is the same! The rains were long and it’s lush and green and the rivers carry some water. Last time the locals and their animals relied on water from holes dug into the dry riverbed.

Arriving at the Lake, the team from Parmalok Island Lodge already awaits us and shows us a safe spot to park the bikes overnight.

Adventure Mode fully activated 😎

The setting is spectacular! There is a large common area to relax and enjoy the views, four bandas and an upcoming campsite.

Dark clouds gather quickly over the lake. Within minutes the calm afternoon transforms into a dramatic downpour.

A boat with visitors seeks refuge at the island. A wise choice considering the crocs could be seeking a 5 o’clock tea snack!

Behind the camp, one can walk up a steep hill from which there is a beautiful 360° panoramic view across the island, the whole lake, neighbouring islands and surrounding hills.

No chance we’re missing sunrise from this spot! Alarms are set to ice our weekend getaway cake!

Day 3 – Island Sunrise & Back to Nairobi

Absolutely magical, the various phases of twilight before the actual sunrise!

Tea time – And we’re lucky that the camp manager, a local, takes his time to tell us more about the area. Growing up on an island in the middle of Lake Baringo sounds like something from a novel!

We hear about the history of the different islands, how tourism developed and the unique wildlife. Now that the sun is up, we spot some hippo poop in the grass up here! Astonishing to learn how the Njemps, who are Massais, embraced fishing as a livelihood. Kenya surprises you every day!

After breakfast we pack up and take the boat back to the main land. We head to fill up the tanks and brace mentally for the Nakuru highway.

Reminiscing on some of the insane offroad trips I started at this Shell in Marigat I wonder if I am becoming a tarmac softlifer? 🤯 (Story links: 2020 solo Eliye/Kakuma trip here, and 2022 duo Todonyang/Ileret trip here)

Motorcycling rule no. 18: If a rock looks suspiciously alive, stop and investigate.

Have you ever carried a tortoise?

Thankfully the little guy is cooperative and eventually continues his journey toward the bushes, presumably wondering why two humans interrupted his morning commute.

Relieved, we continue the road to Nakuru. An uneventful 100km takes us “back to Kenya” – gently gently with a few more cars from Kabarak onwards.

Easter Monday and the highway is surprisingly empty.

By afternoon we’re back home. The cameras are full and our heads are wonderfully clear. What a reminder that some of Kenya’s best adventures are hiding just beyond the main highway!