Author: manuela

The group ride to Moyale was amazing! The taste of Shiro still in our mouths, Nyawira and I camp by Ewaso Nyiro river at Archers Post. From here, I want to explore Samburu and Laikipia with friends. Equally excited and nervous to take my new bike off-road, because this means sand!

To see the pics from the Moyale ride, have a look at Part 1 here!

Day 4 – Samburu’s beautiful nature

From here, we will take it off-tarmac. Grace and her friend join us at Archers Post. They are so excited for the hike up Mt. Ololokwe and the dusty roads for the next few days. But first we enjoy the beautiful scenery by the Ewaso Nyiro river and the pool!

Then Nyawira heads out for futher escapades in the Mt. Kenya region. Clearly she’s the extrovert in the squad, making new friends everywhere!

After lunch, the remaining trio heads over to Sabache Camp and we arrange ourselves for the hike. We plan to camp on top of the mountain.

Our local guides were not bothered by this snake. We later seek an identification on an expert facebook forum: Cape Wolf Snake (Lycophidion capense), harmless, non-venomous.

Incredible nature and views as we slowly make our way up the 800m mountain. We arrive with the last sunlight and pitch the tents at the cliff. What a luxurious meal, prepared in the campfire!

The views at sunrise are breathtaking. This is my third time on this mountain, and definitely one of my favourite spots in the entire country. Watching the birds enjoy their flight in early morning sun is just so peaceful!

Day 5 – Offroad to Koija Star Beds

Riding with Grace there’s one thing you don’t have to worry about: Route Planning. She knows every road in this area. How amazing when someone makes their hobby and passion their career!

We start by taking the main road to Wamba. Luckily it was recently graded and we don’t get many corrrrrugations. We get a long sandy lugga, and boy it’s tricky with the heavy bike! I can’t say I’m very skilled, correctly geared or courageous on the throttle. And slow rarely works well on sand but even less so at 320kgs 😮

Samburu is green atm and the scenery amazing.

After the Wamba junction we take beautiful smaller side roads, crossing many sand rivers. Some rivers have concrete bridges, as well.

I’m indebted to my co-riders for sharing tips for riding on sand, and lending their muscle power every time the tricks don’t work!

All in all we do about 120km until we get to Oldonyiro, a small shopping center where we meet our fourth rider Topo, yet another nature lover and motorcycle tour guide, and top up on food supplies.

Today’s destination is Koija Starbeds, a community run eco-lodge at the Ewaso River, about 20kms further into the bush. The route is a little messed by floods and we end up passing through backroutes around sunset time. No, we don’t get lost, we just find new ways that aren’t leading to the destination. But every time we pass by fresh heaps of elaphant dung, we confuse the gods by praying that we meet them but don’t really meet the giants.

On arrival, we make some amazing dinner, and relax at the bonfire. Oh, the full moon!

Day ? – Somewhere between Naibunga and Loisaba Conservancies

The concept of the starbeds is so clever! A huge, comfortable bed is mounted on wheels, so you can push it out on the balcony of your banda. Under a thick duvet and a tight mosquito net, I watch the moon and stars and the sunrise. The banda also has solar heated shower and a very clean toilet! In the morning a monkey family comes to play in the tree next to my bed.

The place has a well equipped kitchen (even a freezer, toaster and coffee plunger!), a rain water tank for drinking (nearly empty), river water supplies for washing, and a friendly team who takes care of house keeping and cooking. I’m astonished how well kept it is, given it was built in 2002 and how much care wood needs out here.

Naibunga Conservancy is community-owned and part of Northern Rangeland Trust. Limited funding makes it challenging for them to repair the roads and riverbeds soon after every rain, but the place is well accessible with a 4×4 car or the right bike. Simply book through Big North, who connect community-owned accomodation with tourists, here.

The dirt bike riders go out to look for elephants while I enjoy a quiet day by the river, more coffee, tuna wraps and conversation with the team.

And elephants they found!!!

Final Day: Exploring Laikipia towards Nanyki

Today we’re doing some easy riding, mostly on graded roads with a few short dry river crossings. There are various conservancies here, some private-run and some community-owned. We also pass by the power line coming from Ethiopia.

It’s about 100km today, pleasant riding when spotting zebras, various giraffe species, elephants, different deers and birds. As we get close to Nanyuki, the road gets more busy and passes between conversancy fences. Not soooo exciting, but the thought of a tasty Somali lunch in town keeps us going.

A week very well spent!

If you’d like to try out such a motorcycle tour, I highly recommend reaching out to Grace’s and Topo’s companies for some tailored options.

• Grace runs Thrillblaze: website link
• Topo runs Topo Safaris: website link

An epic ride was coming up for Jamhuri Day: Escorting the Around Africa team to the Ethiopian Border. 🇪🇹 After Moyale, taking the slow route home sounds amazing to enjoy some Northern terrain!

With work winding down, I leave the laptop at home for this three birds with one stone trip: Sending off my good friend Havana and her team on their historic ride (more info here), enjoying some magical nature in Samburu (#rideAndHike), and testing my new bike off-tarmac 🥳

The day before, I packed the camping stuff and grabbed my hot weather mesh gear (and food, and rain gear, and tools, and water filter, and spare water, and bikini). In the end, the bike looked a little heavy, probably 250kgs without me 🙂

Day 1 – Quick dash to Marsabit and lunch in Isiolo

While everyone else meets at Nairobi Chapel for an impressive send-off, I get a little delayed in the morning and leave just before noon. Sagana is not far when your bike has above 100 HP. I meet a number of bikes along Thika Road, who are already returning from escorting for the first 50km. An amazing community!

By the time I’m in Nanyuki, it’s nearly 3pm and the maths for a daylight arrival in Marsabit town look tricky. I decide to skip lunch at Isiolo and simply get some samosas at The Outpost in Kisima.

I plan to fuel in Isiolo and that’s when I catch up with the big group! We exchange greetings but I decide not to interfere with their ride formation and keep moving until Mt Ololokwe.

I promised Havana we’d take photos there together, and I’m keen to catch up with her. The core team was riding in front of the escort teams… At the security stop after Archers Post I tell the officer that I’m part of the bikers who already passed. He looks at me with puzzled eyes.

The A2 highway is EMPTY. Ololokwe is always an incredible sight!

A few bikers catch up and we pose for pics together. At this point we have 201km and about 90 minutes of sunlight left to Marsabit town. Doable!?

The ride through Samburu and Marsabit counties with setting light is simply beautiful!

On arrival in Marsabit I fuel at the Total. To my suprise I find only one bike in the hotel’s parking lot! Where’s everyone? I make calls and learn that the entire team was behind us. Only Mbuthia had stuck to the plan of a daylight arrival. Everyone makes it safe to Marsabit this night and hoards of bikers pour into three different hotels.

Bikers from the LaKiKi neighbourhood. We’re more likely to meet in Marsabit than Nairobi 😂

Marsabit county is huge! The second largest county after Turkana – with about 67,000 km².

Day 2: Moyale, here we come!

It’s about 250km to the border and we don’t expect a formal fuel station in between. Fuel is usually sold in bottles from barrels in the North. As we all assemble at the Total, I realize how big our convoy is! Lots of good vybes – new and old faces!

And off we go!

Imagine me being the sweeper on a legit group ride! I love this bike! And being the sweeper means I can stop at this beautiful crater for photos!

One thing about this generation of bikers is that they combine their loves for the adventure and their family. The best dad award goes to Champ Mohamed today, who is caging in the coolest BMW convertible (is it still caging if there is no cage?) and is taking his cutie daughter along all the way up to Moyale.

Can you imagine what the locals think when they see us rocking up in their desert like this?

Yes, we are in a hurry but a selfie stopover at 37° lazima!

The A2 up here is probably the best road in East Africa. No pothole since the Subuiga junction. Reflective paint. Well-marked bumps. Signage for bends. About 500km of bliss.

Our stopovers in towns excite kids and adults alike.

Around 1pm we get to the last junction before Moyale.

Moyale town is up a few twisties and we enter the border area (a One Stop Border Post) and park the bikes directly at the fence. We find someone who exchange KES to Birr.

As the core rider team proceeds to the customs office, the rest of us request a security guard to watch our bikes and take a stroll to the Ethiopian side. It looks like the bigger part of town is on the other side. How amazing that Kenyans can enter Ethiopia without a visa. The Ethiopian border guard even recommends a restaurant (Koket Hotel) and we crowd into TukTuks to take us there.

Embarassing! This Kenyan probox cuts off our tuktuk driver.

We find a great variety of non-alcoholic beers at the bar, and order a few mixed plates of Ethiopian dishes to share. I have a feeling that this food will be very spicy, so I order Shiro instead.

It is time to say by to the core team who are riding onwards into Ethiopia. And just as we finish paying our bills, they enter the restaurant.

Enjoy your journey, many beautiful encounters and safe roads always!

PS: Look at the photo bomber at the back! 🤣

Day 3: Moyale to Archers Post

Before riding back to Marsabit, we have to get fuel. We’re about 15 bikes and that takes some time. It’s just before 5pm when we leave Moyale town.

This ride has some amazing people! Such diverse bikes and even a drone!

The playlist is zen, the skies are clear and the full moon bright. The last smooth bends before Marsabit through the hills are absolutely magic and meditative.

Day 3 – Exploring Marsabit and back to Archers Post

Most bikers are leaving early to attend to commitments back in Nairobi. Nyawira and I want to see a bit more of town, and are also keen to visit the Botanical Garden of Marsabit. We are warmly welcomed by the team and they help us to arrange bodas to go see the place.

Good chats and safe riding with the boda riders!

Riding out of town through backroutes we see farms and red soil. It had rained briefly in November. Marsabit town is farmland, while most of the county is pastoralist land. It is great to learn more about the vision of the Botanical Garden, and their progress. Preserving some of the indigenous trees and medicinal plants of Kenya is an urgent and important cause, but how to make it work when the rain seasons keep failing year on year? They hope to grow much faster once they secure a water source. We hope to come back one day through our partnership between Miti Alliance and Women Bikers’ Association!

Sunscreen plus offroading without helmet = trouble

And then we check out of the hotel and head southwards, back to Samburu county, past Ololokwe to Archers Post.

Then we meet these two incredible cyclists, on their way from Cape Town (!!) to Addis (!!). What an achievement 💪

At some point we are waved down by one of the other bikers on their way back with a chain issue. Sadly we don’t have the right tool to help, but a local rider manages to get it from his house.

Back at Ololokwe Nyawira is doing the most to secure the best shots.

The security check takes us a little longer to clear this time round. They are doing a thorough job and requested to examine all our luggage. We still get to Archers Post before sunset and ride into the beautiful Lions Cave Camp.

What a beautiful journey this was!

Two more bikers join us here for the offroad saga that’s to come: We want to first hike Mt. Ololokwe (yes!) and then cross over through some scenic trails in Samburu, Isiolo and Laikipia.

Get all the pics and stories in Part 2 of this article! Both are motocross racers. Well, at least my bike has the Dakar sticker 😉

PS: The photos on this article are not all mine. They are from various riders in the escort team! Thank you all for an amazing time together, and the great comradery 🏍️🏍️💨💨💨

I got my KTM 390adv (2020) in late 2022, with 2 previous owners just broken in at 4,600km. I promised a 10,000km review, but it took a little longer 😂 The odo just hit 25,000km and I’ll say it’s a fun, reliable bike! Even my GS friends look at it with shiny eyes and I’ll tell you why later.

But let me start at the beginning.

When I started riding in September 2018, my first rides were on a 108cc bike. That’ll be a whole story in itself. From 2019-2022 I was riding my Spirit Motorcycle to the remotest corners of Kenya and also all the way to Lake Kivu.

A custom scrambler. Nimble, lowered, carburetted, light, a reliable Honda 125cc frame and engine, with some great additions like adjustable shocks, LED lights, and an extremely cool design, we covered 35,000 Kms together.

Our trips are documented on this blog including how it jump-started a Super Tenere 700 after crossing Lake Turkana on a boat.

On my first solo roadtrip I spent more time taking pics than riding!

Riding this amazing bike taught me discipline on the road, resilience on offroad, how not to tie luggage, how to take photos and how steering bearings are changed. And many other mechanical things because you don’t just ride 2,000km through Northern Kenya or 5,000 through East Africa on a custom bike without a little DIY here and there.

BUT . A ride to Watamu would take me 12 hours, and on group rides, I’m guaranteed to be left behind (unless it’s offroad of course 💪). So what could possibly be my next bike? A little faster, more ergonomical, but equally reliable?

Anyways, what’s an upgrade? (Part 1)

A quote I read about bike upgrading on the internet went something like: You can only upsize your engine, the upgrade will be in your skill.

I borrowed a KTM 390 adv from a friend for a 600km tarmac roadtrip back in 2021 already and had lots of fun in the Chogoria twisties. But I just couldn’t see myself riding it offroad or in town traffic. Too high! (855mm seat height) Too heavy! (172kg wet, so 200kg with luggage)

With my 1.59m, I can’t get two feet down, and I was used to that safety net of walking it through sand or mud if needed.

So I went for offroading classes with Offroad Adventures in Karen. On their tall but light dirt bikes, I learned to shift my weight to the right or left so that I could stop the bike and start again with only the toes of one foot down. I managed the sitting and standing position correctly on uphill, downhill and cornering, and how to brake on offroad.

Late 2022 I got an option to buy a relatively new KTM 390 adventure 2020 model from a rider in my circles. At 4,600km with two previous owners it was very gently used.

I never saw myself as a bike reviewer, so when guys started asking for my review, I wondered what exactly I would write that isn’t yet covered in many other online reviews.

Part 2: Pros. Things I love about the 390adv

Safety

The braking system is impeccable and the ABS has kicked in a few times!

I’m sitting higher above traffic and can see what’s going on a few cars in front of me. Sitting higher, with higher backlights also means drivers behind see me better.

I’m getting a lot more respect from drivers on this bike and can flash my not-so-boda looking lights at oncoming cars/mats/trucks which are overtaking in my lane on highways. 80% of cases they move back into their lane.

And if I’m pushed off the road, it feels much more stable with the larger front wheel!

Power and Acceleration

If you ride a T7 or GS1200 or one of their siblings, please skip to the next chapter (fuel consumption) and only then come back 🙂

The 373cc produces 43.5 horse powers (just like my first car!). You can google the torque numbers, but let’s just say very few cars, no matatus and zero trucks matches the acceleration between 20 and 130 kmh, meaning you can leave behind many drivers, but maybe not all large SUVs. The bike comes alive upwards of 80. It also sounds and shifts better here.

Something really nice happens at about 6500 rpms, when the top end torque kicks in. You’ve got to be ready for it.

And it’s a forgiving bike! Whether you find yourself in 2nd or 4th gear at 35kmh, you will make it. I have stalled this bike only twice on tarmac.

Fuel Economy

The power/fuel ratio is fantastic! I have NEVER gotten an average above 3.1/100km on any tank filling. Cruising around town is about 2.9l and if you push it on long uphills or highways, it goes up to 3.3l/100km.

This is still nearly double from my previous Honda engine, but gives the big boys teary eyes.

2024 May Edit: On looong, empty highways (Namibia), when the average hit 121 km/h that morning, the fuel consumption went up to 4.5 l/100km.

Offroading

This is an adventure bike. Standing ergonomics were a game changer for me. The 19 inch front and 17 inch back tire give stability and amazing handling. You can zoom along rough roads at 70 and roll down rocky hills or forest roads without thinking twice. (Obviously skills come in handy and I have taken countless offroad trainings!)

Tarmac offroading is very common in Kenya: With this bike, you’ll sail bumps, and rumble strips and potholes disappear once you hit 50. No gravel on tarmac can scare you. (Okay, maybe the one in the twisties…!)

The WP forks are amazing. Not ridden this bike with the stock tires. I ride Mitas Trail+ tires, which are 60:40 (Road:Offroad).

Every 390adv review speaks about the fact that offroad ABS does not mean ABS is off, and that Traction Control will come back on after every time you restart the bike. The ABS doesn’t bother me much, given my riding style, but Traction Control being on while you want it off can really annoy you, especially on bumpy roads, and I have stalled on a few rocky uphills cause of this.

Fun little things

Finding neutral is impossible on this bike. But you can connect your phone to the display via bluetooth, then see who’s calling or even navigate using the KTM app.

The quick shifter is a fun little extra, and works best when accelerating nicely.

This bike looks amazing when completely clean or quite mucky. In between it looks pale. I rarely wash it, actually, and prefer a bucket wash. Once the display throw an ECU error, after a pressure wash.

Following 390 forums on the internet it also seems the 2020 version was quite reliable, and later versions may have more electronics issues and faults.

Part 3: The cons / not so great things

There’s nothing I hate about this bike, honestly. But if I could get less vibrations on the the handlebars and footpegs, that’ll be great. Sometimes a foot or hand gets numb. The footpegs have rubber to buffer the vibrations from entering your boots, but in the rain season it’s so slippery you remove the rubber.

Minimal fender distance on front tyre could create issues with black cotton soil or bad mud, but hasn’t been an issue to me. Some people modify to raise the fender.

The sound: I mean, it’s a single cylinder 373, people! Nothing too sexy, no roar 🤕

Part 4: Cost & Maintenance

After sales service: I had been told that once you buy a KTM in Kenya, you’re by yourself. The dealership that sells the 390s is not like the BMWs or Kibos that are putting intentional effort into smooth and customer-focussed after sales service.

So I embraced this mindset from the get-go. I printed (!) the workshop (!) manual. I research and know the fluids that go into my bike. I do as much as possible maintenance myself, or with the help of other bikers. I chose different mechanics for different issues based on their strengths.

When thinking of getting a ‘big bike’, get out your calculators! Everything, absolutely everything will cost 2 to 10 times what a small CC carbureted bike needs. And because most things are imported, prices change with the dollar.

Oil & Filters: Oil filter and oil every 7000km. The bike uses 1.6l of synthetic oil. While Motorex 15W/50 is recommended, I like Motul better. Currently about 1900 a liter, and 1500 for the filter. I changed oil at about 5000, 10000, 17000 and 23500km.

Air filter: You can and should clean it regularly of course, but replacement is due every 7-10k (3,500 KES when I last needed one). A washable one would be more economic in the mid-term.

Wear & Tear: I replaced the stock drive set at 17,800kms, the chain was completely worn out at this point. The new DID 520 vx3 chain and JT sprockets came to 137 Euros. I hope these will last at least 20,000 km.

A set of tires sets you back around 30-35k, including balancing. My first set of Mitas was changed at 23,500km and I’m hoping the second set will do the same mileage.

Not needed to replace the spark plug, any cables, brake pads, etc yet. No malfunction of the cooling system yet. Still on stock coolant.

And here’s a picture of taking my brandnew Mitas tires offroad:

Part 5: After Market Parts

Lowering the bike: After reviewing various options, I decided to go with a lowering option by Metisse, a German company. You replace the spring plate under the mono shock, thus lowering the back of the bike by 20mm without actually changing the spring. Fully reversible. Then you just push the forks through the handlebar by the same 20mm, and voilá: Manuela has one foot down while the majority of the booty is still on the seat. (They also have a 30mm option but I didn’t wanna loose a lot of ground clearance.)

Saddle Stays: The cool orange bags I got that everyone’s asking about are called DrySpec D20. They never even got close to touching the exhaust or tires, but I still ordered Saddle Stays from India (AdvenTOUR 3-point) just to be sure and to be prepared for larger saddle bags. The saddle stays are sleek and sexy!

Topbox / Toprack: The previous owner had added at topbox but sadly the mount didn’t last for long once I went on bumpy roads and slight offroads. A bolt broke and I ended up leaving the topbox in Naivasha at my friend’s place one day. Then I looked for a mount that would attach to at least 4 points on the bike. I imported a Toprack from Motouren from India, which sell custommake parts for KTM and other brands.

Mounting both the top rack and the saddle stays was a little finicky, as they lock on the same bolts on the bike’s frame.

Bike Protection: Crash bars were already mounted by previous owner, and giirrrllll, I have used them!! I also added a display protector (from India). Not yet added a headlight protector, which could be recommended when riding offroad in groups, as a stone could jump and break your expensive headlight.

Final Verdict? And what next?

It took me a while to embrace the fact that the bike doesn’t have muuuuch character. It is exactly what it is. The truth is that you as the rider add the character.

I’m not at all tired of this bike! And I’m about to embark on a 6-country 7,000km trip. Let’s talk afterwards!

PS: I have never even sat on a KTM Duke 390. As mentioned, this review is about the KTM 390 Adventure.

PPS: Links to riding stories on the KTM:

• East Africa Loop part 1: Nairobi – Kampala – Cyanika – Lake Kivu here
• Part 2: Lake Kivu – Kigali – Singida – Kilimanjaro here
• Part 3: Moshi – Usambara Mountains – Vanga – Diani – Nairobi here

It’s been a little over two weeks exploring East Africa with the new girl. She’s done great so far and I reached Kilimanjaro via the longest and most scenic routes ever: From Nairobi via Lake Kivu and Nyungwe Forest in Rwanda.

It’s been amazing spending time with biker friends, first Havana and then Mbeche – and now it’s back to solo-ing as he’s headed back to Nairobi. If you missed it, jump to Part 1 (Nairobi to Lake Kivu) and Part 2 (Kivu to Kili) first!

Kwaheri! Thanks for good company, mechnical entertainment, chain lube and bike wash! ✌️

From Kilimanjaro I want to continue to the Usambara Mountains. As a child I heard of a beautiful flower from this place (which is named after it). Plus I enjoy hiking so this was going to be great 😁

And somehow I want to find my way to Diani in the end. I’ll be starting my 2023 work schedule with a week long engagement there!

A scenic but hoooot and windyyyy 200km until the foot of the mountains.

They got some pretty unique road signs in TZ!

I can’t help but think that in Kenya, the main “produce” in such geographies nowadays is charcoal, sacks lined up by the roadside. 🥴 But here they deployed an irrigation scheme and flooded some fields in the plains. Sacks of potatoes and tomatoes abound in all markets!

Turnoff from the highway and up to Lushoto on a well maintained, sometimes narrow road twisting up 800 or more metres. The journey takes an hour with photo stops.

After a late lunch I check into a decent room and dig out my walking shoes. An evening stroll takes me to Irente Viewpoint.
Beautiful sunset and incredible views!

Day 2: More hiking and exploring!

Today I want to hike in Magamba Forest, a beautiful thick indigenous forest. Instead of using a guide I search for routes on Wikiloc. It’s a 5km walk through town and fields, and by the time I enter the forest I’ve finished my drinking water 😌

Up at the Viewpoint, there’s a young friendly ranger who sells water, charges the entrance fee and gives me directions for the remainder of the walk. I take his number just in case, because I wouldn’t be the first tourist getting lost at night here.

Once out of the forest, Lushoto town is a 3km walk back along the tarmac. It’s quite nice, mostly down hill and I glance at people’s houses and gardens and collect lots of greetings and smiles by school boys and girls. I realize that most women wear head scarves and skirts or dresses.

Everything’s great until I run into a group of construction workers who are walking uphill. One eyes me top to bottom, then stares at my breasts and loudly tells the others (in Kiswahili) to get for him that prostitute’s number because he really likes what he sees. Some of the others laugh, as we pass each other. I decide to let it slide, because who wants to deal with this kind of shit on holidays? Or any days?

After a micro seconds of self-doubt about the appropriateness of my clothing, I decide to shake it off.

It rains all night so I shelve the off-road route to Mambo viewpoint. Bucket list stuff! There has to be a next time!

Day 3: More mountains!

Day 18 on the road! Time to continue eastwards. Magoroto Forest is just 150km further. I book some recommended accomodation ahead, Mathias Cabin, having no clue how the road or place would look like 😅 But first back down to the Highway!

Onwards to Muheza town, I pass through Korogwe. I wonder if this Ginnery offers tours 🤔

The cabin’s caretaker meets me in Muheza town and gets on a boda to guide me to the place. He says it’ll take around 30 minutes. Shock on me!

Once out of town, we twist up a dirt road, the more beautiful views the higher we get. There are some sharp corners with ruts and big stones. It’s so comfortable and pleasurable with the 390s torque!
At some point we enter a forest and as we exit, I realise we’re inside the clouds. Drizzle!

The road to the cottage becomes a steep single trail 😂 Quite slippery! I have no plans of dropping the bike, yet it’s too tall for me to put a foot down securely on this slope. When in doubt, gas it out! I run into some traction control related issues, but make it in the end. 💪

These are some beautiful and simple huts on top of the mountain! It rains all afternoon and night so I sleep inside clouds 💤

Day 4 – The longest day on this trip

Today I’m meant to get myself from mountains to the sea! But!

Everything is muddy. Visibility is low, it seems we’re still inside the clouds or some thick fog! I’m quite unsure whether to wait it out, as no-one can predict if the clouds or sun will win the race today.

The team sees my concern about the muddy steep corners and generously offers to help get the bike downhill to the village, which I happily accept 🤧

From the village it’s easier riding to enter the Forest Estate, which is a campsite and restaurant by the lake, complete with forest trails and a curio shop. The caretaker makes sure I’m comfortable and hands me over to the staff here.

I’m the only visitor this morning and swimming in this beautiful rain forest is just incredible!

Back down to the tarmac! I’m getting to practice standing cornering. Beautiful views across the valleys!

I’m really enjoying the larger wheels of my new girl. Quite a difference actually!

At 3pm I hit the tarmac.
Onwards to Tanga!

Mabuyu trees, palm trees, humidity, the coastal feel is amazing 🤩

I receive a contact for a very beautiful beach place to stay at which is run by a biker. They closed for the week though (guess what, for a ride!) so I add Fish Eagle Point to the bucket list.

(Y’all didn’t know there’s tarmac in Mandera, right?)

Wow! I’m less than 100km from Dar! This country is so massive, yet somehow I crossed it.

Finally: Tanga! I ride around town looking for the Indian Ocean

NOTHING beats the smell and sight of the Indian Ocean. It’s been around 2,200km since leaving Lake Kivu. Thoroughly enjoying this trip!!

And yes, the crocodile in front of my bike looks like a log. 😂

After a quick meal in Tanga, I feel the urge to continue to Diani today. It’s 5pm and that’s only another 150kms.

Can you imagine such a sign in Kenya? Because bumps are so rare, they tell you how many to expect!

Somewhere just before the Kenyan border my bike turns 10,000km! I’ve basically doubled the new girl’s mileage in the last month since adoption her 😎

This is the least pleasant border crossing on the entire trip. First, the security staff want me to bring my entire luggage from the bike to a scanner (I decline). It’s five counters (health, immigrations, customs, immigrations, customs) and – excellent timing – a whole busload of travellers from a certain place in the West of Kenya with an entirely different concept of personal space pours into the hall. Finally, the customs team are watching soccer. Me and a truck guy knock at their window for several minutes to get their attention. 🤦🏼‍♀️

Wueh!

On entering Kenyan network my Airtel One Africa bundle that has taken me round all these foreign hills and water bodies stops working. Absolutely recommended at one thousand bob only! I top up a 254 bundle and head out

It’s 19:09 when I inform my ICE virtual escorts that I’m officially stamped back into Kenya and by 9pm I’m having pizza under palm trees in Diani.

Let me not tell you too many unnecessary details about how long I stay in Diani and what amazing, fun and relaxing things I do here!

But yes, I did carry work clothes all the way around East Africa, as I had a week-long workshop with one of my favourite clients!

Final day: Back to Nairobi! Today is day 30 of my roadtrip.

There’s something about bracing yourself for a ride back to Nairobi.

The drivers mostly actually. That carelessness, aggression and impatience. But also the state of the roads. Potholes, speed bumps or concrete pillars could have grown since the last time I was there!

I get some premium juice for the KTM and leave Diani just before 11am, curious to see how long the final 570kms may take!

I took the ferry quite a lot recently, so I choose the Shimba Hills route from Diani for today. The 22km rough road are in a terrible state with a thousand huge holes. Heavy trucks and some construction attempts are messing the road and it’s quite sandy, too. I remember beautiful smooth cruising from my last visit, but this time it’s not much fun even on an adv bike. Achieng may agree on this and Dindi disagree.

Riding between Voi and Emali is bsolute bliss… Fairly empty and the Tsavo road has been recarpeted in the bad spots!!

I have lunch in Mtito around 4pm. I take around 80-90 minutes for every 100kms today, with stops for photos, bush toilet and snacks.

Sunset over Makueni hills… Quite a treat 😊

Riding at night between slow and unlit trucks between Salama and Machakos junction takes up all my remaining energy… I’m happy when I get to the dual carriageway finally.

Athi Roundabout, Southern Bypass, Western Bypass – search for food – home!

4617.7km. What an amazing experience!

People ask me what on earth I do for work to have such opportunities to travel. Well, as a team we work pretty hard. We support fast growing organisations in answering big strategic questions. So we sat down and did the maths. We decided to close the office for three weeks to rest and rejuvenate after an intense business year and in anticipation for a kickass, energized 2023!

It might be different in other workplaces. Yet people love traveling! Adventure lovers all over are perfecting the ROI on their meagre leave day policies 🙂

Other bikers were also sharing their holiday trips on African Motorcycle Diaries (a Facebook forum). It was a fun exchange 😂 I missed a KTM lady by a day in Lushoto and Wakili passed Western Tanzania a few days before us.

Seeing how people live in other places and how they make things happen is such an inspiration. We have many big questions to answer as humans in 2023, from healthcare to livelihoods and climate justice. How do you feel about this saying: Think globally, then act locally!?

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Despite all the Christmas traffic I arrived at Lake Kivu in excellent spirits (part 1 here). The next part of the adventure should lead me to some of Tanzania’s most beautiful spots, a country I’ve had many adventures in, but never ridden through before!

But first, Havana and I spend a few relaxed days at her place at Lake Kivu. I visit the nice massage place again, meditate by the lake’s pier and go for walks. She’s working all through the holidays, but is so generous with her space and we talk and catch up a lot in between.

A friendship that’s equally deeply supportive and easy flowing is a major gift in life!

We can’t wait for the long weekend and riding together!

PS: I’ve described border crossing logistics in-depth in a previous blog post

Day 1 – Kivu – Nyungwe Forest – Huye (former Butare) – Kigali

Today is Day 8 of my trip. It’s also the second last day of 2022! We’re headed to Kigali for New Years Eve 🎆

Of course we’re taking the scenic route! Snailing along Lake Kivu to Rusizi border (more pics from here in my other post).

After saying hi to the border officers, we continue towards Nyungwe Forest. Similar to Uganda (Day 2 here), also in Rwanda the army is protecting the Forest Reserve. From logging and poaching, I assume.

After coffee at Uwinka Visitors Center we continue Eastwards towards Huye (former Butare, Rwanda’s second largest city). I’ve not visited this area before and take in the many kilometres of wild indigenous forest, until we get to some hills where the forest ends and tea plantations start.

Some kids approach us asking for pens. They speak some impeccable Swahili and we realize their families must have fled DRC and they live in refugee camps in the area.

We continue towards Huye.

How’s riding in Rwanda? This pic says it all 🙂

After fueling in Huye, we continue towards Kigali.

We have a late lunch at Stafford (the other Stafford!) and it gets more busy as we approach Kigali.

On the last 20 or so kms on entering Kigali, we find some bad traffic built up. We move at snail pace down the hills between trucks. I remember a short cut that Tish and Chiri showed me last time. We find it and somehow manage the super sharp extra steep right turn without injuring any bikes in the process!

Google Maps does its thing leading us through side streets across a dozen hills and we arrive in Kigali at Havana’s friend’s place at dark. What a happy welcome by two happy dogs!

Next Day – New Year’s Eve in Kigali

It’s a holiday after all – the last day of the year! We review our 2022 and share aspirations and plans for 2023. Just yummy Indian food and dogs and girls catching up.

We head out to celebrate New Year’s Eve with some friends. A little dancing and beers. This city (well country!) is soooo organised, even the fireworks happen in a centralized place! 😃

Day 2 – The most eventful 1st January in history

We somehow make it to bed before 3am, knowing we have a guest to pick up in the morning at the border. Mbeche from our Nyumba Kumi is on his way to Kigali. He will join me for the Burundi-Tanzania leg of the trip. Yes, Burundi. That is the plan for today.

He somehow managed to reach Masaka in Uganda last night and gets up early to cover the remaining 300km to the Rwandan border Gatuna before breakfast.

We leave Kigali around 9 to meet him in Gatuna at 10am.

Havana will have to ride back home today! We plan to split up at Kigali, and meanwhile sandwich Mbeche who is new to riding on the correct side 👌 of the road.

Until I spot something interesting on the left side of the road: A suspension bridge crossing a small river.

Curiosity gets the better part of me, and we bid Havana goodbye, who has to cover a good 250km to get home.

Mbeche and I agree to have a late breakfast in Kigali, and plan out the route for today (go to Burundi? or directly to Tanzania?)

We get to Kigali just after noon and Maps navigates us to a restaurant that looks nice. Town is generally pretty deserted but a road near the Convention Center is closed. As I try another route, I get us lost, or rather we end up in a place that looks very official, with lots of flags and government offices in a large roundabout on a hilltop.

I stop briefly so I can figure out the directions on Maps until I think I know the way and continue moving. In my mirror I can see Mbeche not moving, but I’m not so concerned given he usually catches up fast. After two more turns I reach the restaurant, but no sign of him. A few minutes later I backtrack, just to find him stalled at the very place on the hill top, now with a Rwandan military official next to him.

His bike is not starting! We use our combined tools, brains and my internet to trouble shoot the error code (“crankshaft position sensor“). This might not be the best spot to repair a bike. Two civilians right outside the Ministry of Defence on a public holiday, one being an overly muscular black Kenyan wearing a camouflage balaclava + camel bak and heavy boots, the other one a white woman with a big orange motorbike. 😬

We just can’t figure out the error, remove and check different parts of the bike following various manuals from different websites we find. We assume the crankshaft positioning is fine, but the sensor throwing an error prevents the ECU from starting the bike.

No, we don’t take any photos. We are stressed!

A second and later third (equally armed) officer join the first one. We’ve taken over an hour here!

It’s around 3pm and Mbeche hasn’t eaten anything today. This year so to speak. The soldiers are a friendly type of watchful but really – we can’t overstay our visit at the gate of the Ministry of Defence, can we?

Rwandan bikers share phone numbers of their mechanics – but today being the 1st of January, we are requested to come visit the workshop tomorrow.

I offer to ride back to Havana’s friend’s place – first to ascertain how far and hilly it will be to reach there (this is Kigali, friends!), and also to ask her if we can stay another night. She’s very welcoming and laughs at our misadventure.

It’s not very far from where the bike is to her house, and gladly it’s mostly flat or downhill. We agree that we will somehow roll or push this 200kg piece of metal there. Struck by brilliance, Mbeche tries out jumpstarting the bike while it’s rolling down a hill. The Yamaha roars to life!

Shock on our faces. We repeat the same trick. Still works. Is it safe to ride to Tanzania now? After all the bike can be push started! We agree it’s worth seeing the fundi after all tomorrow.

We take an evening stroll around Kigali, and look for a place with a view and a drink. We can’t appreciate our host enough for providing us refuge!

Day 3 (well, 11 in total) – Not sure where we will reach today

We pushstart the bike to visit the recommended fundi Emme. He’s along some cobblestone roads up on a hill with narrow roads and a good number of mechanics and spare parts shops. Can you imagine a very clean, extremely organized and quiet Kirinyaga Road? Probably not, ey? Go see it: KN 130 Street

While the two get to work, I go look for breakfast next door (say, on Tom Mboya Street).

The mech is convinced that the crankshaft position sensor is fine. But the stator motor is not. It’s worn out. He brilliantly sources a Rav 4 spare from a shop nearby and solders it in place.

Success! The bike starts on the push of a button, as desired!

We look for Rwandan money to pay the mech’s dues – then head out towards Rwamagana and Eastern Rwanda. Burundi is not an option anymore and we decide to shorten the trip, heading to Tanzania directly.

But there’s one more thing I have to do before leaving Rwanda!

I spot Jackfruit on the road side! Fene! Fenesi!

As we park the bikes, the whole village turns up. We don’t seem to have a spoken language in common but sign language and smiles always work! The fruit is quite cheap and the market women pool their coins to hand me my change, as I tentatively hand over my 1,000 RWF note.

YUMMMM!!!

And how scenic the area is, with green hills and rock formations 😲

Within few hours from Kigali we reach Rusumo Border. It’s one of those One-Stop-Borders, where you ride to the other side first, then handle all aspects of leaving one and entering the other country in one building.

On riding through the 2km or so securely fenced border area, which is quite beautiful between hills and crossing the Rusumo river, I spot a bunch of military in the hedges. At some point three trucks are oncoming on my lane. Ooops. Time to return to the left side of the road!

Noone on this trip has asked me for my yellow fever certificate so far. But right here, on entering TZ, I realize I left mine in Nairobi, some 2,000 km away. The Port Health officer looks at me with those eyes. Luckily I’m able to retrieve it from my documents saved on the cloud using some very shaky Airtel mobile network.

When crossing a land border, the biggest horror is usually a bus load of 50+ humans in the immigrations queue before you. We somehow sneak through the door quicker than them! I had applied for and paid my visa online, so we clear Immigrations quite quickly.

On entering Tanzanian network, our phones switch an hour forward back to East African time. Procedures took a little longer, as both countries’ customs offices were keen to inspect the bikes before issuing the import/export permits.

By the time we finish the border crossing, it’s already sunset time.

Stunning. And as we stop for pics, a drunk guy runs after my bike, seemingly overexcited to sell me something, but he might have as well pushed me over. 🤯

In complete darkness, we navigate the next 20 or kilometers. The road has potholes and we nearly crash into some random closed barrier. Wow. A cruising speed of 50 will have to do this evening.

The area seems sparsely populated. We reach a small shopping center with various accomodation options, mostly aimed at truck drivers. Single rooms start at around 300 KES but we opt for slightly more comfortable accomodation (Prosper Lodge in Nyakasanza).

The universe loves us though! There’s a nice cafe offering buffet dinner and we add Chipsi Mayai as a dessert. It’s Mbeche’s first time in TZ so we’re having fun practicing our kiswahili sanifu with kaka-ing and omba-ing.

Day 4: Today we want to cover 630km up to Singida

The bikes are behaving well. Roads are wide and empty!

Just a few trucks and busses but we mostly smoke them. Today we learn that each village or shopping center has a speed limit of 50 km/h and most have a barrier at the end of it, manned by police.

The barriers are all open and we get into a good rhythm of speeding up and down, respecting our bikes just as much as the local residents.

Lots of cross winds today! My old bike was naked but light and less powerful, sometimes thrown away by wind easily. Natasha can confirm. The 390adv with lots of body surface feels more wind susceptible yet heavy and powerful enough. I don’t slow down really but still find it physically tiring to keep counter steering upwards of 110.

The Fazer or rather the owner doesn’t seem to notice the wind.

Beautiful Tanzania!

Our lunch consists of Chipsi Mayai and Soda. It is HOT in this January sun. Today’s topic of discussion is fuel quality. It’s a little cheaper but seems to run through the engines like water (figuratively speaking!). We haven’t seen any petrol station of a brand we know.

According to our maths, we have just about 1-2 hours remaining to our destination and we pull up at a place serving fresh juice.

We think we got a loooot of time to kill and hang out at the juice place stretching our backs. We can easily do the remaining 150km or so quickly, right?

We move swiftly until Mbeche suddenly stops. The Fazer randomly indicates a full tank. Oh wait, it’s not full tank. It’s a high temperature warning from the cooling system.

We hold a meeting to figure out the issue. A lot of coolant has disappeared from the cooling system! How? We refill it with water. How do you ride a 4 cylinder 600cc engine “carefully”? 🙈🙈🙈

The last hour into Singida is really pretty, approaching some mountains, then riding through them.

Somehow we make it to Singida town with the last sunlight and the Fazer intact. Lake Singida to our left.

We spot a Total petrol station! Quality Fuel with a 95 rating!

They don’t sell coolant, but point us to a second Total. A second Total!!

Kenyan Biker friends had recommended Amenity Paradise Hotel in Singida, and we pull up, with the manager who expects us providing a warm welcome.

There’s something about Tanzanian rice (yes, wali, mchele!) you can’t explain. It’s so fragrant and tasty! We order a full chicken kienyeji for dinner with some mchicha.

I’m too tired to even consider a beer 🤦🏼‍♀

Day? – Onwards to Arusha!

It’s the 5th day on this lag and my 13th day on this trip. The morning sees Mbeche changing the Fazer’s coolant. Cause Wueh!

We head out towards Lake Manyara by 11 or so.

It’s beautiful riding, no winds and I finally get to test the bike’s speed!

Of course we have to try out the local snacks. Y’all know Peanuts Karanga?

Then there’s this huge mountain coming up. Kili? Not really. Turns out to be Mt. Meru!

Approaching Arusha area, rain clouds gather

Sooooooo prreeeetttttyyyyy!!!

Arusha town welcomes us with bus-car-daladala-tuktuk-boda chaos. Slightly overwhelmed, I pull up at a petrol station where we filter Google Maps accomodation results by budget, make a few calls and take a pick. We end up at quite a forgetful guest house to be honest but clean. And the hot water worked, what else do you need?

I need cash, so we walk around town looking for an ATM. This is when we learn about Safaricom Global M-Pesa, where I end up withdrawing Tanzanian Shillings for less fees at a better rate through a Vodafone money agent than any bank has provided on this trip before!

Day 6 – Kiluletwa Springs and Kili – Vacationing in Moshi!

From Arusha, Moshi is not really far. We pass by another place with a memorable name. TZ just kills it with the names of towns!

About 20km off the highway lies a little gem I’ve been told about: Kikuletwa Springs, a community-run natural pool to chill and swim.

After some 20km rough roads, it feels GREAT to remove the sweaty gear and take a swim 💃🏻

Pure bliss! There’s even a swing. Little fish chew our feet and it feels like 2023 is off to an excellent start 💫

Kibandas provide different lunch options. The only thing missing is ice cream 😋

At last we pack up and climb the bikes. When we get back to the highway (really just a narrow two-way tarmac road), we are meant to turn right towards Moshi. I stop a few metres before the junction to buy some water. No kiosk sells water and I buy it at a bar at double the price.

We have half an hour to Moshi, and the gentleman volunteers to sweep. As I wait at the junction for traffic to clear so I can take my right turn, out of nowhere a skinny, middle-aged man runs towards my bike and switches it off. This is a tall bike and as usual, I’m holding it with one foot down only. I nearly drop the bike in the surprise moment. The guy tries to shove me off my bike. It’s extremely confusing cause it feels like daylight robbery! I’m not getting off the bike, so he tries to push the bike while I sit on it, but it’s in gear and can’t move. Finally, he removes the key.

A second guy, also in civilian clothes, with limited English comes to explain to me that I’m doing an illegal turn and I’m arrested 😬 🤣 🤬. A high volume, high speed conversation ensues between the two guys (Kanjo??) and Mbeche in Swahili.

I ask ask for their ID (none!) and insist the conversation happens in English, given I’m the aggrieved party. This throws off the two guys, and they have to call in their boss who speaks English.

We’re still in the middle of the road, what a scene! Bodas are watching but not getting involved. A friendly Tanzanian gentleman approaches us and enquires what the issue is. There is of course no signage whatsoever indicating that a right turn isn’t allowed and I explain the assault that took place. He convinces the guys that creating such a violent reception to tourists is not good for Tanzania’s brand and that if there is any fine to be paid, he will pay it for us. (Which there isn’t).

No, there are no photos.

We are released and take the correct detour to enter the highway.

On arrival in the guest house, we realize there’s no power in Moshi today.

We chill, review the pictures from the off-road swimming trip and replay the Kanjo scene in our minds. Too nuts!

Towards sunset, we walk through town looking for a restaurant and find a local place serving fish and rice.

Maybe it’s the long power cut that spoilt the fish. Or maybe we’re just exhausted and the beer didn’t go down well?

But we both get some serious food poisoning that night. I don’t get much sleep 🤢

Day 7: Recovery day in Moshi

We chew some dry toast, do laundry and clean the bikes. Around 3pm we finally feel strong enough to head out and explore the route behind Kilimanjaro.

Quite beautiful but we’re not enjoying it as much as the previous days’ riding. Rwanda and entering Tanzania from the West was just an incredible experience!

The riding at least aids the recovery of our appetite! We have dinner at a garden restaurant with glances at Kilimanjaro at sunset. What a chill evening to finish off an eventful few days 😁

From here, Mbeche returns to Nairobi as work calls. He receives a friendly escort from Namanga by bikers from our NK. I still have a week left, and will continue eastwards to the Usambara Mountains, with the aim of reaching the Indian Ocean and crossing over to Diani from there.

We really had fun! Not all two riders make good riding buddies!

What made these 1300 kms together smooth is an extra positive mindset, being accomodating to each other’s riding styles and an adventurous spirit. Plus the Fazer’s music turned heads in each village 😆

To more rides together!

Dear Reader, please leave a comment below!

Then continue to Part 3 here – Mountains and Ocean and finally some off-roading 😎

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My month in Rwanda is coming to an end. Beautiful riding and new friendships. I enjoy Kigali’s bars and cafes with views across the many hills.

But Nairobi is calling.

I want to use the back route and explore Western Uganda, avoiding the main highway. I take leave and have around six days to get back home; covering around 1500km.

To be honest, I didn’t plan much. I just wanted to float.

How it ended up going:

Want to catch up on how I got to Rwanda? Here are the earlier episodes:

• Nairobi to Lake Kivu (3.5 day ride) – article here
• Overnight random to Gisenyi/Goma – article here
• Lake Kivu & Ngungwe Forest & Rusizi border ride – article here

Now a solo return to Nairobi – using the scenic route!

Day 31: Leaving Kigali

That was fast. Or maybe I have just figured out the border procedure by now.

Remember to keep left – you’re back in Uganda now!

By the time I arrive in Kabale, it’s raining. The mountains North of Kabale are covered in thick clouds. I put on the rain gear and ride up North navigating the twisties carefully.

Quick photo stop at the arguably most important statue in East Africa. It gets hot again!

The road branching off left at Ntungamo towards Fort Portal does not look very inviting. It’s narrower and a bit pot-hole-ish and cloud towards Rwenzori Mountains are increasing. I’m torn. The whole point is adventure. Remembering the thousand rumble strips on the main highway and violent drivers, I turn left.

I spot some crater lakes on Maps and note it’s 79km to go. A little more than an hour without photo stops. I hit the road.

It never works without photo stops. And rain gear stops.

At some point I get to a roundabout. There’s a left and a right turn, but no straight. There is a Shell petrol station. The first one for a month, as there’s no Shell in Rwanda. I get excited for a minute. V-Power! Civilization!

Then it dawns on me that there should not be a roundabout on my 79km. And no T-Junction. Something is off. I pull out my phone and realize I didn’t press Start on Maps, and missed a right turn. I’m 30 rainy km off in the wrong direction. And how is it 3pm already?

Great. But there is a road up North which I decide to follow.

Until.

Yes, I can continue straight. Through 30km hilly offroad on a rainy day. Or not. I decide to backtrack to the junction I missed.

It’s 4pm now. And from here it gets PRETTY!!

At Ishaka the road from Mbarara joins us from the right. The whole area has very sensible tarmac and very little traffic.

I pass a bunch of crater lakes, each worth a visit and picnic. Then I pass some viewpoints and ride down into empty vast Savannah.

Queen Elizabeth National Park! A Ugandan biker had recommended Kazinga Camp but they are booked out. I find Tembo Lodge on Maps and ride in.

Even a welcoming (!?) hippo! I am given a sensible rate for room and dinner, and decide to spend the night here. But not before exploring the rough road into the National Park with the remaining sunlight.

It’s beautiful sunset riding, but sadly I get to the park gate within minutes. “Bikes are generally not allowed, but exceptions can be made.” Understandably, this is not an option at night…

The team at Tembo has three vegetarian dinner options. It’s yummy but the ten thousand lake flies make me flee to my room very fast after dinner.

Day 32: Rwenzori Mountain Range and Fort Portal

Tourism day! 114km to Fort Portal – all along the Rwenzori Mountains, maybe stealing glances at the glaciers and peaks above 5,000m.

If yesterday’s scenery and empty roads are anything to go by, today will be beautiful!

In Kasese town I get into a misunderstanding at the Total petrol station. I have to ride and get cash from an AMT, as my VISA card is not accepted. The attendant follows me closely on a boda so I don’t escape with the 5 litres of petrol.

It’s all very beautiful scenery and peaceful riding. I filter through Booking.com and pass by the recommended The Dutchess to check out the rooms and vybe. There’s a room with a shared bathroom within my budget, and I bump into the manager who gives me some tips to explore the area in the afternoon.

He’s not as enthusiastic about me riding to Ntoroko, a fishing village at Lake Albert, and mentions the UG-DRC border being more volatile and less hospitable due to smuggling activities. What looks like a cute peninsula along the lake according to him is an overgrown area, with no café or restaurant and is not a place to make friends – if at all I want to go there, I could ride to the UWA (the KWS equivalent) bandas, take a photo and return without talking to anyone to avoid trouble!

I’m of course tickled to do it anyways, but then he raises another idea: A hidden escarpment, with an offroad ride through some mountains to hot springs.

Now that sounds like a sensible afternoon!

I cannot wait to offload the luggage and head out!

Quickly leaving Fort Portal behind heading westwards

In the hostel there was a mention of an escarpment. But in no way did I expect to find this:

What heaven! It gets better with each corner. The tarmac is washed out in some spots by the rain, but it’s 99% great.

The valley is very beautiful too. Soon I’ll have to decide if I turn right towards Lake Albert or go straight to the Hot Springs.

Hot springs it is. Before long, the “old road” branches to the left. A chance to explore some off-road? I’ll take it.

There are some houses and farms. I stop to greet a boda who tells me I shouldn’t bother with the route. It’s steep. He and his passenger both fold their arms indicating a 45% gradient. I tell him I want to try it. He eyes my tires and says “Okay, but be careful.” But of course, yes!

It takes me a good hour for the 15kms over the Buranga Pass, mostly because I take a hundred photos in all angles. The map is thoroughly confusing. I can see the tarmac road directly below me but I’m at least 400m above it! How on earth will I get down? Just how steep will that squiggly road be?

It’s getting late, so I get to practice some of the cornering techniques Grace and her team showed me… and before long I get to the tarmac near the Hot Springs.

There’s a small river somewhere along this green space, it’s the border to DRC. In fact, at some point my phone roams on DRC network and adjusts the time backwards by an hour – confusion much!

I stop at the junction to the old road to buy some water and catch up with the bodas. My guy is also there and nods in acknowledgement. I now think he hasn’t been to that other side in a while.

The sunset across the valley is just the killer!

Usually you wait for the road to clear to take pictures. This place is deserted. So I wait for some minutes just to get some action on the cam!

Day 33: Fort Portal to Kampala

I don’t know what to expect. A Ugandan biker had suggested that I go via Hoima instead of taking the direct road. “The Government is constructing the road”. This would add 100km to my route to 400km total. I want to maximize the time in Kampala with my friend and her kids.

The first 30km are BEAUTIFUL! Smooth tarmac through tea plantations. Then it gets a little rough, but nothing too bad with the right playlist (Thank you, nani!)

Just around 100km into my day, I find there’s not much tarmac left around the potholes. You can imagine what cars and trucks do if they find crater-like potholes on their side of the road and there’s “only” a motorbike on the oncoming lane.

My plan to arrive in Kampala for lunch is out of reach, as I’m averaging 40/50 only.

And it gets worse as I get closer to construction. Or rather, the road was graded in anticipation for construction. It’s many kilometers of gravel with dust.

Finally, I pull up at the petrol station at Mityana. I’m covered in dust. The water I drink tastes dusty. The bike has a dust layer – which just looks horrible on a red shiny bike!   My first attempt at a non-earth coloured bike – I might be too lazy for this in the long-run… I try to clean the helmet and visor without scratching it.

A white guy chats me up, who is caging and stayed in the same hostel in Fort Portal. The Shell staff can’t agree whether the road continues as bad or gets better from here.

It turns out to be better from here onwards and I reach Kampala by 3pm.

The roads in Western Uganda were fairly empty, much safer than the main highway through Masaka. Now it’s just a quick 20km dash on the Northern Bypass to my friend’s place. An overspeeding SUV overtakes me closely in my line while I overtake a slow truck. Completely and unnecessarily putting me at risk. There’s something about Ugandan roads that takes some adjusting.

My friend welcomes me warmly and we catch up on life over dinner! Steamed Matooke and G-Nut Sauce!

Day 35: Back to Kenya

How close to Nairobi can I get? It’s 650km!

I leave Kampala early with plans to have breakfast in Jinja and by miracle reach Nakuru today. Same route as five weeks ago!

After fuelling in Mukono, I head out Eastwards towards the forest. The roads are empty, and aside from some slow moving trucks I’m making good progress.

In Jinja, I want to try a local hipster looking breakfast joint I had scouted online (The Hangout Jinja). They unfortunately don’t allow me to park inside the compound and I don’t feel like parking on the road with my luggage strapped on the bike. I find my way to Java instead where the askari waves me to park next to his chair at the main door.

Around 10am I head out from Jinja with plans to reach Busia by 12.

As I pull up at the border in the same parking spot, the same cop stands guard. She asks me where my friend is. I admit that I left her behind somewhere in Rwanda. She must see a lot in this job, because she just nods. Border clearing is quite fast, but I cannot find my Safaricom SIM card anywhere. I had made a little paper envelope for it, which is torn. Damn it!

After navigating the horribly rough road welcoming people to Kenya, I spend 45 minutes at Busia’s Safaricom outlet to get the SIM card replaced. I have all kinds of currencies on me, but zero KES. You just never know. m-pesa is water and water is life.

From Busia to Luanda the road is empty. At the Shell in Luanda, the attendant asks me where my friend is. I admit that I left her behind somewhere in Congo. The guy looks at me with big eyes. Havana, we must have left quite an impression!

In Kisumu I ride through town, leaving the bump-infested bypass aside. It’s sunny and hot. It’s four days to elections and I expected campaigns but nothing much is going on.

Lunch!

From Ahero, I continue towards Muhoroni. Clouds are gathering over the mountains. I consider the Kericho route, but don’t see myself escaping the rain either way.

The rain starts in Koru and sunlight ends right after.

I have around 40km left to Londiani Junction. I meet a bunch of bikers who are heading westwards this Friday evening (for elections?). My gloves are soaked and Riftvalley August nights are chilly! At some point I stop on the road side and pull up booking.com on my phone and filter through the accommodation options. To reach Nakuru I’d have to use the highway and I wasn’t feeling it on a Friday night on wet roads.

I find a decent looking place and navigate there with my last 4% of battery. The road is a disaster, with a million potholes and deep trenches at the edges.

And this is how I find myself in Molo that night. Molo! Go figure!

The manager at Green Garden Lodge tells me to use a small connection road from Molo to the main highway, as the Molo road itself gets even more horrible up to Nakuru.

Day 36: Molo to Nairobi

In my wisdom I had packed one change of clothes in my small bag, and don’t need to repack the big bag that morning.

I leave before breakfast and navigate to the highway

I find the Molo stretch empty, the Gilgil area empty, the Delamere area empty. Miracles happen!

After breakfast in Naivasha the emptiness continues. It’s spooky. This highway is never this clear – and it’s 3 days to elections!

Well of course from Soko Mjinga it gets busier, but I travel behind a truck and all goes well.

Nevertheless, I am happy as I reach the Limuru swamp. There’s this little road safety statue on the left side, a completely destroyed car which aims to remind drivers to be careful.

And BOY did we have some bad encounters on this trip.

A total of 1530km since I left Kigali.

I am mesmerized from the beauty I saw in Western Uganda. I’d love to do it again and explore some of the valleys more, maybe hop over to DRC, though maybe with a faster bike.

I had religiously taken photos with the relieve app during the last 1200km of the trip. Around 80 or so pics. Now it turns out that the free version of relieve only allows 10 photos per video. So I activate the free trial of the paid version which only allows 50 photos. I end up removing many nice photos. What crap! I create and download the video and delete the app.

Whoever had a question about the Spirit’s top speed, here comes your answer!

Here’s the video link.

Thank You!

Thank you Havana for inviting me on this incredible adventure and your friendship!

To the new friends made in Rwanda and Uganda, we shall soon ride together again.

To Paul, so many bikers and non-bikers have reached out to me and shared their recovery wishes.

Thanks to the bikers and WBA who have been so enthusiastic about putting together a first responder training with me, so that we can be well-prepared for the eventualities. For August we’re running a safety campaign, learning more about the many puzzle pieces of safety on two wheels. (Get the videos on IG under the hashtag #safetyWithWBA — link)

For my little virtual escort whatsapp group and everyone who kept checking in along the journey: Thanks for being available, for commenting on my photos and keeping me company even if you had mad FOMO in the office 🙂

Dear Reader, thanks for joining me on my first trip outside Kenya and hopefully not the last! Please comment on this post with more idea and experiences for great routes!

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What’s the plan for the weekend?

We have to extend our temporary bike import permits. They were only valid for two weeks. This can be done at any customs office of Rwanda Revenue Authority. Now, we’re around 100km in any direction from the next office.

We went North to Gisenyi last weekend (get the story here) and decide to go South to the Rusizi border for the paperwork.

We get up early and head out before 6am. The goal is to get to Nyungwe Forest for lunch, as we missed to see this famous forest last weekend.

It gets more beautiful by the minute!

Not everyone’s awake yet fully. At one of the many sunrise photo stops, a side stand is MIA and Mugabe goes back to sleep. His left eye comes off in the process.

I can’t figure out how to fit it back to the holder and we end up taping the lamp to the bike – at least the cable won’t get damaged by dangling along the hundreds of km we have ahead.

See how the road snails along the lake? Incredible riding!

There’s a long steep downhill and I’m riding behind one of those ninja cyclists who’s flying downhill at high speeds… I’m trying to keep up with him in the corners and my odo hits 72 as I spot the speed camera and let him go 🚲 💨 😂

After 90km of beautiful twisty riding we enter the RN6 highway that connects Butare to Rusizi/DRC

And then it gets really chilly and I instinctively know what comes next

Time for roadside breakfast overlooking tea plantations

Before long we descend back down to the Lake and enter Rusizi town. This is the Southern end of Lake Kivu and a river is separating Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo here.

Within two minutes we arrive at the border point Pont I (There’s also a Pont II)

We park and look for the customs office. Upon presenting our objective, we’re informed that yes, it can be done here, but we will need to pay the fee in cash and only in USD. What on earth? How unexpected. All we have is MoMo.

We find a momo agent, a forex and get a sensible rate

From here the procedure has several steps, including showing our logbooks, a physical bike inspection, taking of photos, approvals, printing of a new permit and another approval step.

In short: a lot of waiting

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Ladies and Gentlemen: The Congolese border has running water in the toilets – unlike Busia!!

Similar price: 200 RWF (20 bob) and I’m told “Il faut payer” – slightly more polite than “Lipa Kwanza” but same message.

We find out that the paperwork can only be extended by one month at a time. If you plan to use your foreign vehicle in Rwanda, you’ll be making regular trips to customs offices.

After around 90 minutes: Success! Our bike permits are extended and we pass by Emeraude Kivu Resort for coffee and ridiculous views across the lake, river and Bukavu town on the DRC side.

Next stop: Nyungwe Forest!

It’s about 60km to Uwinka Visitors’ Center and beautiful relaxing riding.

We enter a huge dense forest, the highway cuts right through it!

To enter the Canopy Walk we will have to wait for two hours, because there’s no guide available. 3pm? That should be our departure time if we want to get home with sunlight.

We decide that a selfie will have to do

They have a nice cafeteria built into the trees so we order drinks, then chill and enjoy the green views

Tish and Chiri join us for lunch.

It’s been two weeks since we rode together from Gatuna! Lots to catch up on.

No, I wasn’t the only one talking!

It takes the restaurant 90 minutes to prepare 4 burgers, so we head out quickly after lunch

And what an epic collection of bikes awaits us!

We have 115km to get back to Kibuye. There’s enough food in the fridge and room for guests – we invite the guys to join us at the lake house.

The forest is foresting. On departure we get rained on for 10 minutes and maneuver a loooong wet snakey downhill safely. At the turn back towards the lake we leave the clouds behind and the ride back is divine. The golden sun rays hit the mountains from the right angle!

Before long we get to the hair pin turn we saw in the morning. Breathtaking! Isn’t this the perfect place for a drone shot?

Tish rides ahead. Doesn’t the iPhone take good snaps?

Staying alert is becoming difficult. 290km of cornering is not a joke in terms of concentration!

We reach home just before sunset and goof around taking pictures

I’ve been drooling over the golden Transalp XL 700V over the last two weeks 🤤. I’m shy riding her but so excited that I can actually lift the bike while having one foot flat on the ground. One day 😇

A short sunset cruise around Kibuye town to top off the day.

The friendly soul who contributed an amazing reggae playlist to this beautiful evening: Barikiwe!

I know you’re all curious what happened. Well, there were beers involved, and stories and incredible kienyeji chicken. The muscly huge type that even has meat on the neck.

I can tell you about the morning, though. Because I wake up at 5:45 with the first sunrays, totally famished. I grab some chicken and enjoy the sunrise on the veranda. Then I go back to bed for two hours to catch up on sleep.

When I wake up the second time, the guys have whipped up an amazing breakfast. Next we sort out a few issues on our bikes including Mugabe’s left eye.

There is a general hangover in the air and we shelve the idea of riding each other’s bikes around town.

Before long, it’s goodbye, as the guys have at least 3 hours to arrive back to Kigali.

What a chill and beautiful weekend ride! 291km for us, and a total of 466km for the gents. And two speed tickets 🙈

PS: Curious about the return trip to Nairobi? I went through Western Uganda and it was breathtaking

PPS: There’s nothing like receiving July weather memes from Nairobi sitting under blue sky in the sunshine.

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