Mount Kenya is beautiful!
I previously hiked along three of its routes, but not yet the Chogoria route – which is said to be the most beautiful one! More rain, thicker forest, several lakes and water falls, the Eastern side of the mountain has been on my bucketlist for some time!
There are several routes up Mt Kenya, you ask? The below map (source) gives a better idea. Depending on preference people spend at least 3-7 days exploring this beautiful mountain, admiring the various vegetation and zones! Did you know that both KFS and KWS are involved in protecting and managing it?
My dream was to camp at Lake Ellis. A sunrise at 3470m! It seemed doable for a two-day trip: About 200km good highway to Chogoria town, then about 22km forest trail from the lower to the upper barrier and finally about 10km to the lake, where it gets pretty steep.
I pitch the idea to my adventurous pal and we pull together a budget. 430 KES pP, 300 car charges and 450km fuel.
For reassurance I call the KWS Warden in charge of Chogoria Gate, who informs me that if camping inside the National Park, the 3-day ticket applies (to us and to the car). Wow! In other national parks like Tsavo the 1-day ticket lasts 24 hours, meaning you can enter in the afternoon to camp, then leave in the morning. Well, this special Mt Kenya rule significantly brings up our budget, but we think it will be well worth it.
And so we stuff the car with camping gear, firewood, food, stove and utensils. The warden was optimistic that a powerful 4×4 car would make it up to the lake and as the road was recently made, ground clearance would not be as important. Still: I am mentally ready to hike the last few kms if needed. 💪
The drive to Chogoria town is quite scenic, first enjoying the Sagana highway, then the twisties especially once past Embu town.
Following the KWS signs, we make it to the lower barrier/gate, where payments happen (as there is no network at the upper barrier/gate). And now we learn about another rule that we had not been aware of:
To manage safety in the vast mountain, anyone planning to sleep inside the national park must be accompanied by a local guide. Someone who will ensure we follow the park rules and don’t get lost, causing an expensive rescue search. The KWS team shares a number of a local guide – his charges: 4,000 KES per day – meaning 8,000 KES for the overnight trip.
This would double the entire trip budget! We are well past lunch time and he is not close by! 🤯 Change of plans? Head to Meru National Park instead?
Then the KWS officer share another suggestion: If we camp at Anabas Lodge (link) located at the upper barrier instead, we technically won’t enter the National Park today and we could then drive up to Lake Ellis tomorrow – on a day ticket, and without needing a guide.
We happily agree! Now that we have a solution, we proceed to fill the paperwork. KWS is doing a thorough job with several books and forms to capture the details, planned route and even emergency contacts for each person entering the mountain.
The next 20-ish-km up the mountain are very beautiful. Lush forest. A gradual incline from about 1,700m to 2,900m asl. Thankfully it hasn’t rained in a while and the road is well passable. In about half an hour we reach the upper gate and share our plan with the guard. He mentions that we are allowed to head up towards Lake Ellis with the first light at 6am and should reach there within 30 minutes in time for sunrise.
We proceed to Anabas which is a minute away – a rustique lodge built on a vast forest clearing. They do have wooden cabins as well (call for prices). There’s even Starlink and sockets in the restaurant.
The place is huge! How do you pick a place to pitch your tent?
We enjoy some nice views towards the forest and valleys and watch the clouds moving in and out of the various mountain peaks as the day ends!
My pal skillfully lights a beautiful bonfire and we prepare a yummy dinner: Foil potatoes and chicken skewers 😋
Pro tip: It gets really chilly at this altitude – hot water bottles come in handy to stay warm in the sleeping bag. 🥶
By 5:30am we are up. As we warm the car, the display tells us it’s 2 degrees! Yo!
Let me show you the routes up here on Google Maps Satellite view: The upper barrier and Anabas Lodge are well visible at the bottom right. Red dot = turn-off to the lake / roadhead. Yellow dot = another roadhead near the really steep sections. Blue dot = Waterfall parking
Even without mobile network I am confident we will find our way.
We embark on some very steep ups and a few steep downs. In just 8kms we climb another 500 meters! We are now above the treeline and the afro-alpine vegetation is stunning as always!
And then we spot the lake!
We take lots of photos and absorb the beautiful views. The three highest peaks are clearly visible! Stunning
Then we whip out our stove and utensils and prepare breakfast right here at Lake Ellis.
Watching the many tents and cars lined up along the lake, I am suddently relieved that we camped at Anabas. Peaceful, empty, and probably 2-3 degrees ‘warmer’. And we still caught sunrise, just like everyone else.
The rule of the mountain is to carry out all garbage you bring in. Because it’s not just harmful to the animals and ecosystem, but who is supposed to pick it for you, honestly? Sipping our tea, we watch a group of campers collect their many beer cans.
Next stop: Nithi Waterfall. As we drive back down in sunlight, we realize just how steep this is.
The road to the lake was recently graded, a controversial move. While it is meant to improve emergency rescue access, and certainly helps because we don’t have extensive ground clearance, the hikers now walk in dust.
The views down are quite beautiful – we are above the clouds!
Once back at the roadhead, we take the right-turn towards the waterfall. We park where the road ends, and talk a stunning 15-minute walk to the breathtaking Nithi waterfall!
The fresh air and the incredible plants and bird life: Absolutely worth it!
Connecting with untouched nature!
What a wholesome expereince for body and soul 🌈🌞🌸
Now I am excited to climb Mt Kenya once again soon, using the full Chogoria Route!